Prerequisites:

  • you must be a good swimmer before body surfing.
  • know the waves  understand them
  • don't panic
  • learn what to do  
  • know your options

 

choices:

1. standing up less than knee deep 

  small wave

 jump up as it passes

2.  deeper water but still standing

a)   small wave  jump up or dive over it

b)   dumper is a stronger wave

      dive into it

   if tosed to the botttom be chest first

    hands out to protect ones head

c)  or swim to catch the wave

      not panacking if dumped

d) large  wave dive into the wave

       knowing you will be taken down

      then lifted up the other side.

 The aim is to catch the wave

      on top of the wave

but being dumped is posable

    the uncertainty is the excitement

  if one understands the surf.

 

Riding waves in the surf at the beach .

 

     I grew up in a surf side city. from the age of 16 I was allowed to go to the beach on my own,

 as I did most summer weekends. in my primary school years my parents took us to the beach and passed on their knowledge of safe body surfing. In my older teens and later in my middle age I developed my own techniques.

   I understand the surf, the waves.  I can look at it and walk away when its choppy or unsafe. I swim between the flags where life savers are on duty.

    So this page is not foe everyone. concepts and experiences are only transferable if they are known.

  Many ought to look at other strategies.

 

 Riding the emotional waves

     It might happen when loads of trauma are released

      It might happen when I am tretaumatised

but by applying the principles of body surfing

I ride emotional waves.

    I remember sharing this in a survivors group

      most of the men looked at me wondering what I was on about.

      as most experience being overwhelmed.

 I have found the response of riding the wave to turn an emotional wave

from being potentially overwhelming

to a wave I can catch or ride in 

   or if it dumpes me  I know how to ride it to the other side.

   by applying the principles of body surfing.

I study it

I strategise how to respond   .

  the main thing I remember is that waves pass.

the main thing is to take a deep breath when I see the wave comming

and hold my breath whilst under water and not to fear

  when under water to focus on holding my breath

   focasing on  holding my breath and reaching the other side.

suggestion - practice swimming under water in a swimming pool

                          not too deep so you can stop and stand at any point.

                    it is important to do this to build up confidence when under water

                        and how long one can hold ones breath for.

                       my guess is a min 25m with 50m an increased margin.

      sometimes waves come into sucession  so when surfacing take a quick deep breath

          in case another wave comes immediatly even one deep breath provides enough oxygen

once again whilst these responses may help some

it might not be for you.

take care .

 

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